Step 7: Reinstall the ferrite bead and feed the wires through the rubber grommet.īe careful not to pull the heat shrink off the ground wire when you are pulling it through (like I did the first time). I couldn’t feed the wires through as it was so I made the holes slightly larger with my drill. Step 6: Bore out the holes in the rubber grommet. You’ll want to use the smallest diameter heat shrink tube you can get away with so it will fit through the hole in the rubber grommet.Īpplying heat shrink tube to the ground wire
Step 5: Use heat shrink to shield the ground wire. You’ll need to separate the shielding and twist it together to make a wire you can push through the grommet. One thing to note is that there really aren’t 2 wires, it’s a single center conductor and the ground is the woven shield that surrounds the conductor. Pull out the wires from the rubber grommet. You can pull off the ferrite bead and clean off the glue they used to secure it. Now you can remove the cord from the rubber grommet and trim off the fraying portion of cord. The wires removed from the rubber grommet with the cord lengths traced in the background for reference. The power cord has been freed from the circuit boardįor a record of the cord lengths sticking through the grommet I traced the cord as it stuck through the grommet so I could size it correctly. Once I got the wires unsoldered, this is what I was left with: Make sure not to loose the ferrite bead that the wires run through–you’ll want to put this back (it removes any high static frequency from the power). I pretty much just heated up the solder joint and ran the solder sucker on each joint once and then heated them up and pulled at the same time and they came right out. I was able to desolder them with only using a solder sucker but you could use desoldering tape too if they stick for you. Also, take note of which one goes where so you can put them back correctly. You’ll want to locate where those two wires connect to the board and then figure out where they poke through to the back of the board so you can desolder them. There are two wires–a white positive and a black negative/shielding wire.
With the shielding removed you can see where the power cord connects to the circuit board Don’t worry about bending it, it will bend easily back when you are done. In the picture below you’ll need to bend back from right to left the metal shielding that wraps around from the left side to see where the wires connect to the circuit board. Step 3: Peel back the tape and bend back the grounding shield to show the circuit board. Once you have popped open both sides you can take off the case, revealing the electronics:
One thing to note is that there are two small plastic pieces that hold springs for the cord wrap “wings” that may come flying out when you do this. The easiest way is to use a needle nose pliers in reverse and pry open like shown below. It is ultrasonically welded so you just need to pop it open.
#Macbook pro power cord holder crack
Step 2: Crack open up the power cord case. The now clean but yet fraying MacBook power cord. It took me a couple of rounds to get it about as good as I think it will get. Spray some on your cord and then wipe off with a paper towel. Precision Electronics Cleaner from Radio Shack
I purchased some electronics cleaner a while back at Radio Shack and it has worked very well on sticky stuff like this. Now I have to backtrack and recover from my first attempt to solve this problem. Step 1: Clean off the sticky mess (in my case). Soldering Iron (I purchased this model and really like it).Apple Macbook 85W AC Power Adapter (if you just want an entire new power cord).Magsafe Replacement Cord (if you want replace the entire cord).
#Macbook pro power cord holder how to
Here’s how to do it… How to Repair a Fraying MacBook Power Cord – Take 2 It just involves more work but now’s the time. So, it became apparent that I needed to really fix it this time and I’m down with that. And 2, a short developed in the negative lead and it stopped charging my MacBook.
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